The color wheel for oil painters: hue, value and chroma
Three dimensions, not one
Every color you can mix has three properties, and a painter needs to be able to change each one on purpose:
- Hue is the name of the color: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, and everything between. The wheel is a map of hue only.
- Value is how light or dark the color is. Cadmium Yellow is a light value straight from the tube; Ultramarine is a dark one. Value is what a black-and-white photo shows, and it is what makes a painting read from across a room.
- Chroma (saturation, intensity) is how far the color is from grey. Tube paints are near the maximum chroma a pigment can reach; almost every color in nature is well below it.
Most “wrong” colors are the right hue at the wrong value or chroma. Learn to see the three separately and mixing stops being guesswork.
Why the paint wheel is not the screen wheel
A phone screen mixes light: red, green and blue add to white. Paint subtracts: each pigment absorbs part of the light falling on it, and a mixture absorbs everything either parent absorbs. That is why blue and yellow light make grey but blue and yellow paint make green, and why mixing more colors together always moves towards dark mud. It is also why a hex code on a screen cannot be translated into a recipe by arithmetic — the PaintMixLab engine models how each pigment absorbs and scatters light across the spectrum, then searches for a mix that lands on the color you asked for.
For painters the practical wheel has twelve hues: three primaries (red, yellow, blue), three secondaries (orange, green, violet) and six tertiaries (red-orange, yellow-orange, yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet). Opposites on this wheel are complements and neutralise each other; neighbours are analogous and mix cleanly.
There are no pure primaries in a tube
No tube is a perfect primary. Every red leans either towards orange (Cadmium Red Light, Vermilion) or towards violet (Alizarin Crimson, Quinacridone Magenta); every blue leans towards green (Phthalo, Cerulean) or towards violet (Ultramarine); every yellow leans towards green (Lemon, Hansa) or towards orange (Cadmium Yellow Deep). This lean is called color bias, and it decides whether a secondary comes out clean or dull. Mix a violet-leaning red with a green-leaning blue and the hidden green and orange cancel each other: you get a greyish purple. That is not a mistake; it is subtraction working as it should. See color bias and the split-primary palette for the six tubes that solve it.
Putting the wheel to work
- To darken a color, add its complement or a darker neighbour, not black. Black kills chroma and often shifts hue.
- To lighten, add white — and expect the color to cool and lose chroma. A little yellow with the white keeps warm colors warm.
- To grey a color without changing its value much, add a small amount of its complement.
- To shift hue, add the neighbour on the wheel in the direction you want to go.
These moves are the whole vocabulary of mixing. Here is what they look like as calculated recipes for real paint sets:
TealRecipe by paint setMauveRecipe by paint setOlive GreenRecipe by paint setTerracottaRecipe by paint setNavy BlueRecipe by paint set
A note on names
Painters use “tone”, “tint” and “shade” loosely. Strictly, a tint is a color plus white, a shade is a color plus black, and a tone is a color plus grey. Value and chroma describe the same ideas more precisely, and they are the words used throughout these guides and in the app.
